With a new puppy the easiest way to start grooming is on a low table. An old table cut down to coffee table height makes it easier for you to sit or kneel and the 6 to 12 week old puppy will not be afraid of the height. If you begin with a regular grooming table the puppy will be afraid and you spend your time reassuring instead of grooming. The puppy could also jump or fall off the standard height grooming table.

The puppy should be stroked and soothed while brushing.  Great patience is necessary, since it is difficult for young puppies to lay still without getting restless and fretful.  If you see the puppy getting bored or tired try to start grooming on his/her side as this will save endless time for the future grooming of your OES (Old English Sheepdog).

If possible the puppy should be groomed once a day so he/she will relax more and accept being groomed as an adult. Laying the puppy on his/her back at 3 weeks (which we do before you take your puppy home) is a good position for trimming nails, checking teeth, and really good tummy rubs.  Since serious matting doesn’t occur until about nine months of age, a daily brushing will keep the coat in good shape and won’t require much time if done daily. This daily care, plus one or two baths during puppyhood, which will help the dead hair disappear, should keep the puppy in great shape if it is kept in the house or a clean kennel.  Special attention should always be paid to the butt.  All poop clinging to the butt should be removed immediately.  If it is allowed to collect the poop can plug the butt and create major health issues. 

Take notice that the bristles have no balls on the end. The balls will break and tear the hair. These brushes are available at most pet supply stores or we purchase them online from 3C’s in Moses Lake. Their products are a little more expensive but they are of the best quality and seem to last longer.

First and foremost make this time with your puppy enjoyable. They have a small attention span so pressuring the puppy to a lengthy grooming time will only stress the puppy and it won’t be fun for either one of you.








The dog should be completely brushed out BEFORE having a bath.  Before moving the dog to the tub, apply eye ointment to the eyes to prevent the soap from burning them.

Thoroughly wet down the dog with a hose and warm water.  Soak thoroughly to the skin in all areas, saving the head till last.  Part the hair on the head and soak from front to back trying to keep water out of the eyes as much as possible.

Once the dog is soaked, you will be ready to apply the shampoo.  A shampoo commercially prepared for dogs is best, since it will contain the right proteins and conditioner.  Suds are worked up into a lather. until the hair stands up in peaks. Pay particular attention to the whiskers on the chin, since this and the area under the tail are always the dirtiest! (except maybe the feet!).  Take care not to tangle the hair while lathering the soap by squeezing the lather through the hair rather than rubbing or moving in a circular motion.

When you are sure the dog is clean---including those elbows and hocks---it is time to start your rinsing.  Using your hose, thoroughly rinse the dog once, twice, and again a third time.  Any soap left in the coat will cause skin and hair damage.  Now you are ready for the towels.  Squeeze the water out of the hair do not rub. Squeeze all over saving the feet for last.  Let your dog shake which will remove a lot  of the water and will give you a refreshing  shower.


All long hairs should be pulled out from inside the ear canal. There is a powder (you can purchase at PetSmart or your local pet store) that you can put into the ear which helps with any discomfort from pulling the hair. Most hair can be pulled out with your fingers, but we also use hemostats for some of the deeper hair but be careful not to grab the skin. You can use cotton swabs for ear wax and dirt.